IT IS CUSTOMARY for most websites to start with a short manifesto explaining just what kind of site you have stumbled across… but let’s not get too philosophical about this. I am in favour of hospitable restaurants; inventive chefs; local ingredients; eating fresh food; shopping carefully. I am against over elaborate presentation on the plate; dumbed down food television; blunt knives; and anybody who takes photographs of everything they eat. I don’t much like those dim sum chickens feet. I am a great fan of sweetbreads and pork scratchings. I think that beer gets a raw deal in the context of gastronomy. I usually side with comfort rather than style. This site is mainly about food and restaurants but it also touches on trends and books. I hope that it can be dipped into and that it reads like a magazine rather than a diary - I make a great effort to avoid just writing down where I have been and what I have eaten. Please feel free to use the “Contact” page to send brickbats, bouquets, corrections and comments. Welcome aboard, and as our American cousins would have it…Enjoy!
IMAGINE THAT YOU were an ambitious chef and that the devil took you up to a high place … to cut a long story down to size the Prince of darkness will happily make any chef who’s interested a deal, the cook gets a favourable rent and a very well equipped, often brand new, kitchen, but he also has to put up with setting up his restaurant within the bowels of a hotel. Before the chef has written his first menu the feel, standards and style of the host hotel will have leached into the atmosphere. That’s when having a separate entrance becomes so very important. Sixtyone restaurant at the Montcalm is part of the Searcy’s group and yes, it does have its own front door. Read More...
Questions of Taste
2014 IS STILL A PUP, but looking through last year’s files I came across the piece that I wrote about the inaugural Sausage Rollover which was held at the Red Lion in Barnes. In 2013 I grumbled a good deal about the clever-clever-over-cheffy sausage rolls that were entered. I grizzled about the “sausage” roll that was made by wrapping a lobster tail in pastry. I wrote of my longing for a simple sausage roll that was greasy, filling and perfect ballast for when the thirst was raging. Last week I got to judge sausage rolls from the class of 2014 and I am pleased to report that we have made progress. Read More...
Six of the best Mexican
- Cafe Pacifico
- Green & Red
- Benito's Hat