Kensington Place - pretty much like the old days

NEWSFLASH   More shameless self-publicity!  I had the great pleasure of making an entire episode of Radio Four's Food Programme on the much neglected subject of "Pork Scratchings"! It airs on Sunday 15^th August – 12.30pm and repeats on Monday 16^th August - 4pm.

For an implausibly long time Rowley Leigh ruled the roost at Kensington Place. This was a restaurant known for long lunches and very honest food. Regulars were known to read the daily specials on the menu outside and providing the little ticket was in Rowley's hand-writing (proof positive that it was not Rowley's day off) venture in for a serious spot of lunch. Since November 2007 Rowley has been safely ensconced at his new venture Le Cafe Anglais and Kensington Place has just bumped along – when D&D restaurants took over they added tablecloths and chair covers to deaden the sound levels, they removed them, they bounced from chef to chef and for a long while this place lost its mojo. Then, last autumn Daniel Phippard took over in the kitchen and in July 2010 he was joined by a new front of house – William McKechnie,  ex-Blueprint Cafe. Say it quietly, but KP has regained its charm.

The room is still cavernous and clattery, but as it did in the old days, that just seems buzzy. The food is very good indeed. The presentation may be a tad too elegant for old-timers but the menu has plenty of good ideas. The "nibbles" are epic – "truffled ham and cheese croquettes" small, spherical, rich, melty – well worth fighting over with your companions. Notable starters include "Ox tongue, gremolada, pickled onions, pecorino" sliced wafer thin, but with some cubes of meat to offer a different texture, this dish was a treat. Light enough for summer but packing enough punch in the flavour department. Potted smoked trout with Melba toast comes in a Parfait preserving jar. There are lambs' sweetbreads, bread crumbed and served on a skewer.

Main courses include a monster fish and chips, crisp, golden and thoroughly ordinary – in a good way. There's a well flavoured courgette risotto, creamy and comforting. There's a Middle White pork belly with cauliflower and a pig's head tortellini. It always pleases when a restaurant understands the allure of simple dishes and yet has the talent to do them well – "bavette steak, triple cooked chips, sauce Choron" magnificent, good meat, accurately cooked, belting chips, just add some greens.

Desserts are a strength "KPs Lemon trifle" isn't trifle but it is very pretty made the lemon curd, sorbet and meringue. The chocolate délice with salted caramel ice cream is pretty as a picture and well balanced – not oversweet.  Service is attentive. The bread is good. The butter is salty. The wine list covers most of the bases. Set menu pricing applies at lunch time – two courses for £15; three for £20. There are supplements (if you pick scallops, foie gras, crab or fillet steak) but they don't seem unreasonable.

In the old days punters flocked to KP because it was a jolly place and the cooking was on the good side of reliable. It may be that currently the food has just got even better, the dishes are certainly good enough to distract you from the noise and clatter.

Charles Campion

Le Cafe Anglais, 8 Porchester Gardens, London W2 4DB (020 7221 1415 www.lecafeanglais.co.uk)

Kensington Place, 201-209 Kensington Church Street, London W8 7LX (020 7727 3184 www.kensingtonplace-restaurant.co.uk)