Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons

There are two things about Raymond Blanc that would puzzle anyone, firstly how has he managed to spend over forty years in England without losing his impenetrable French accent? And secondly, how can it be that Le Manoir has held two Michelin stars for 27 years without either gaining the third or being demoted to a one star? For me this is yet another reason to query the judgement of the tyre people. It seems highly implausible that a restaurant could be knocking on the door of the ultimate accolade for over a quarter of a century without getting better or worse. It’s even more puzzling as Le Manoir is undeniably a class act…

Le Manoir is the sort of hotel that is so slick, and with service so seamless, that it is the equivalent of an out of body experience. You can look down on yourself indulging and wish that the good times were always this good.  Presumably even in this dark and stormy economic climes there are people rich enough to treat Le Manoir as a hotel that is handy for Oxford and Stratford but with rather good food, but these are people some way above my pay grade.

The 32 suites in what was once the stable block are both luxurious and comfortable. The cooking is very accomplished. The vegetable garden is enviable. The newly planted orchard is an ambitious and worthwhile project. I haven’t tried it out but I dare say the Spa is the best of it’s kind. The cookery school has a formidable reputation. The phrase “everything of the best” springs to mind. This on-going quest for perfection could be intimidating, many of the people staying, and eating, at Le Manoir are there for a “special occasion”, a treat for which they have saved up. No pressure on the kitchen then.

The “Menu Découverte Septembre” is a nine course monster. But it is a monster that is well-balanced.  The breads are fantastic – Benoit Blin knows his stuff and his “potato” roll has a magnificent crust. The “bacon” roll is tasty and smoky-savoury. From the procession of dishes the highlights were the “Spiced velouté of cauliflower, roast scallop” great balance of flavours. Sweet scallop and rich velouté. A butternut squash agnolotti was astonishingly rich. Then a very elegant dish indeed, bright green sauce surrounds a perfectly cooked piece of fish. “Wild Cornish brill, oyster, cucumber, wasabi beurre blanc” anyone who can harness together flavours so seemingly disparate as cucumber, brill and wasabi deserves special recognition. Head chef Gary Jones is such a man, this dish was a triumph. Roast loin of veal comes with hazelnuts and Scottish girolles – a seasonal treat and once again the flavours work well together. The “raspberry and beetroot gourmandine” is a very cleansing dessert, but for lovers of coconut the “Bounty” plate would be a contender.

Welcome the well chosen beer list.  Beware the wine list, it is huge and  the pricier bottles inhabit the stratosphere. Service is formal but friendly. The cooking at Le Manoir is as good as it gets – even if the Michelin Inspectors disagree.

Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, Church Road, Great Milton, Oxford OX44 7PD (01844 278881) www.manoir.com   www.raymondblanc.com