In Sydney, checking out the rockpools

Armed with the trusty Food Programme recording machine, and after a very good lunch at Rockpool Bar & Grill, I managed to get Neil Perry to say a few words about Australian cuisine. Truth to tell I was a little in awe of Mr Perry whose book “Balance and Harmony: Asian Food” is something of a favourite.  It’s  one of those books that seems to be packed with good sense and interesting ideas, but I confess that I have never actually cooked any of the recipes within it. While trying to get the little lights on the Nagra recorder into the right zone I casually asked Neil how long he had been cheffing for and he replied “about 35 years”….This response stopped me in my tracks, in Sydney Neil is a hot chef and it is comforting to think that we are not talking about “instant” media driven fame but rather the wisdom that comes with experience. The Rockpool Bar & Grill is his latest restaurant and it seemed strangely familiar, large columns, high ceilings, marble, plenty of room for plenty of covers, large menu, lots of dishes you want to eat, gliding service… this place has much in common with the Wolseley.

The menu is enormous but painstaking attention to provenance rules. There’s a wood-fired rotisserie; and a wood-fired grill. Beef is taken seriously: David Blackmore’s dry aged full blood Waygu (four different cuts); Cape Grim dry aged 36 month old grass fed (four different cuts); Rangers Valley dry aged 300 day grain fed (three different cuts). I had a sirloin from Oberon, Black Angus grass-fed and finished on chestnuts – stunning.

To properly explore the menu here would take either a very large team or a fortnight of serious dining out. There was a truffle omelette (Tasmanian black truffles); under “salads” you’ll find “baby cos, reserva anchovies and slow cooked egg with Green  Goddess dressing”; or try braised tripe with  chilli, tomato, ginger and pecorino – very good indeed, welcome bite of chilli, echo of ginger, rich and wholesome. There are good fishy options; beef and Guinness pie with mushy peas; Waygu bolognaise with hand cut fettucine. And the side dishes were magnificent – creamed silver beat puree; celeriac, fennel and cheese gratin; kipfler potatoes sautéed in Waygu fat and rosemary.

Even the miniature Waygu slider from the bar menu is delicious and that’s the view of someone who finds Waygu beef rather greasy and un-impressive.  Desserts also shine, “The Ciampini” is chestnut meringue and ice cream sandwich; or maybe the ricotta fritters and ice cream with citrus compote appeals?

Neil Perry writes a menu that is littered with things you want to eat. Favourite dishes re-appear with subtle twists. The cooking is top notch. And if that’s not enough to make you dribble, this restaurant has the biggest wine list in the Southern hemisphere. Starters range from $Aus. 21 to 32 (£13.30 to £20.30); fish from $Aus. 39 to 49 (£24.75 to £31); steaks $Aus. 39 to 115 (£24.75 to £72.90); sides $Aus. 9 to 12 (£5.70 to £7.60); desserts $Aus. 12 to 25 (£7.60 to £15.85).  Start saving.