Small plates, big ambitions, Ibérica and Soif

It is just about time to say goodbye to 2011 – and to comment on how resilient the restaurant industry has been in the face of the continuing economic gloom. If there has been a popular strategy for beleaguered restaurateurs it is the “small plates” wheeze. Offering several small dishes rather than a formal three courser means that customers can reassure themselves that they will only order a couple of dishes (and pay as little as £6 each), which adds an attractive entry point to enticing  pricing.  Then the dishes are so good that you eat four or more – and end up paying much the same as you would in a large plates establishment. New restaurants Soif and  Ibérica Canary Wharf both flirt with this tactic.

2011 was a good year for small plate enthusiasts as there is  a long list of recent hits: from the Russell Norman stable Polpo, Polpetto, da Polpo, Spuntino and Mishkin’s. Ducksoup – a Hix alumni reunion. So it’s no wonder that the guys behind Terroirs and Brawn have ventured South of the River to open Soif in Battersea and that Great Portland Street’s Ibérica Food & Culture has opened a new sibling to bring tapas dining to Canary Wharf. 

Soif is lodged on Battersea Rise -  a thoroughfare that seems to have become restaurant gulch. This is an engaging establishment and avoids pigeon-holing, it could be (but it’s not entirely) a wine bar, a restaurant, or a wine shop. In practice it is all of these things. Soif offers  very interesting wines (like the head office Terroirs) and the list here features an astonishing range of Bio-dynamic wines. The grub here plays a riff on the small plates concept – dishes start at £2 and top out at £19.  You get to pick and mix levels as you order. The charcuterie is outstanding. A belting saucisse sèche; Jesus du Pays Basque; lardo di Collonata; rillettes (very special); the house terrine is also “best ever”. Doing these delicacies justice, (and accompanying them with the excellent bread and crunchy pungent cornichons), can put a severe crimp in the doughtiest appetite. The next wave of dishes are somewhat larger and standouts include “black pudding and squid” the kitchen teams an epic black pudding, made with added pig’s cheek and head meat by Monsieur Parra in the French southwest, with perfectly cooked squid. “Tête de veau, sauce ravigote” is very traditional. A roast partridge comes on a bed of chickpeas with lemon and harissa. Dishes are unfussy, well-cooked and sensibley priced. The wine list features more unknowns than knowns. Time to try a bottle or two that you know are unknown.

The name “Ibérica Food and Culture” sets out the stall very precisely and for some years this slick tapas bar, formal restaurant and delicatessen has built up a following in Great Portland Street. Before Christmas Ibérica opened a second restaurant in Canary Wharf, it’s a large, tall room and manages to be both comfortable and sophisticated. Given the flexibility that comes from offering a range of different sized plates (both tapas and raciones) and the overall classiness of the offer this place seems perfectly positioned in Cabot Square. You can indulge in your own personal Jamon masterclass, try the three classics head to head: Beheer Etiqueta ora (Guijelo, Salamanca); Jabugo Gran 10 vetas (Huelva); Covap Alta expresion (Los Pedrioches, Cordoba). These hams are sweet, subtle and delicious – they are also pricy, think around £20 a plateful.  There are also some more cheffy dishes “Fried artichokes and white asparagus with sea-urchin aioli”; an “Iberica burger made with secreta pork loin and pipparas peppers”; a splendid dish of beans “Fabada Asturian white bean stew with chorizo, morcilla and pancetta”.  The cooking is good here, dishes are thoughtful and sometimes inspired. Call for a bottle of cold Fino and get stuck in.

Ibérica, 12 Cabot Square, London E14 4QQ (020 7636 8650  www.ibericalondon.co.uk)

Soif Restaurant. 27 Battersea Rise, Battersea, London, SW11 1HG (020 7223 1112 www.terroirswinebar.com)