Sweet potato musings

There’s a good argument for saying that the sweet potato is not a potato at all, but when it comes to names this tuber is frequently taken in vain – in America it is called a yam but strictly speaking it is not one of those either.  The Maoris call sweet potatoes “kūmara” which is a bit handier than the biologist’s formal name, Ipomoea batatas.  Potatoes, sweet potatoes and tomatoes are all cousins and can all be found somewhere on the Convolvulacea (the Morning Glories) family tree. For most Brits sweet potatoes are seen as a rather American vegetable, a bit too sweet, cloying, fibrous – candidates for the masher or the chip pan.  Felice Tocchini, the Tuscan born, head chef at Fusion Brasserie in Worcester thinks differently.

The Fusion Brasserie seems somewhat out of place in what was once an undistinguished country pub called the Bird in Hand, the long menu ranges from Insalatina di biroldo e pancetta (black pudding poached duck egg, garlic croutons, mixed leaves)  to Spuma di fegatini e avocado (chicken liver parfait and avocado mousse caramelised onions). There are five sophisticated fish dishes on the Specials Menu – salmon, plaice, stone bass, mullet. There is a range of grilled meats. Plus a handful  of pasta and risotti dishes.  Rest assured,  in rural Worcestershire, a choice of fresh fish this large and inventive combinations of taste and texture is the exception rather than the rule. Fusion is a busy place and the cooking is accomplished.

One of the more interesting dishes is the gnocchetti al gamberone which Tocchini makes with various sweet potatoes.  The sweet potatoes come from Scotts Farm and Tocchini uses three different kinds – orange, purple and yellow – which makes for a colourful plateful, he maintains that the purple sweet potatoes are closest in character to the humble spud, similar fibre and similar dry matter ratios. The dish is very successful especially if you like your gnocchi solid and satisfying, the sauce which is made from prawns, lemon, ginger butter and dandelion is magnificent, it coats the pasta well and is sufficiently pungent to bring flavour to the whole bowlful. 

The Fusion Brasserie has a thoroughly Metropolitan feel, accomplished presentation, friendly service and an elegant dining room with brick red walls, but it is the innovative dishes that set Fusion apart from local competition.  Starters are priced between £4.75 and £9.25; main course pasta dishes - £10.50 to £11.95; grills, fish and mains from £11.50 to £21; desserts £5.95. The succinct wine list has about a dozen bottles priced at less than £20. This is  grown up restaurant  and it is most refreshing to see new ingredients used in new ways. As to a long term future for the sweet potato the jury is still out, however skilfully you use this tuber it tends to end up sweet… like so many American favourites.

Fusion Brasserie, Hawbridge, Stoulton, Worcester WR7 4RJ (01905 840647 www.fusionbrasserie.com)